TEMESCAL CANYON - The Return of a Collegiate Refugee

Although I began hiking in the Santa Monica Mountains at an early age, I never trekked solo until I was in college.  I found refuge in the hills and can distinctly remember standing cliffside in Temescal Canyon, in awe of being surrounded by everything and nothing all at once. Temescal was a short jaunt away from my university, which made it the perfect pre-class getaway. My final semester was packed with photography classes, and Temescal served as the backdrop for a number of projects, including the two photographs above, which were shot with a pinhole camera that I built out of an old wooden box.  

At various times, Temescal has been a meeting-ground for friends, a salve during heartbreak, and a training gym for Half Dome and Mt. Whitney. But every time it's been a place for contemplation and renewal.

I have returned to Temescal on a number of occasions since graduation, but I figured I'd pay the ol' stompin' grounds a visit and breathe some familiar air.

Temescal Gateway Park is located at the intersection of Temescal Canyon Road and Sunset Boulevard.  There is street parking on Sunset, but if you have the means, I encourage you to pay the $7 fee to park in the lot to support the maintenance of the park.  After depositing your mini-envelope into the mouth of the Iron Ranger, make your way to the trailhead...

Knowing where to begin can be a bit confusing, as there are people buzzing about in a number of directions, but essentially there are two main options. The beginning of both trailheads can be accessed by ascending the stairs seen below.  Then you have to make a choice: follow the Temescal Canyon Trail or the Temescal Ridge Trail.  

The main section of the park is essentially a loop, so you can't really go too far astray, but I'll break down the differences...

The Temescal Canyon Trail will lead you directly to the infamous Temescal Waterfall in an easy to moderate mile-long stroll with a 460 ft. elevation gain.  I recommend this path for anyone who is a little unsure of their physical abilities, or for anyone who has limited time on the trail.  If you feel you have more gas in the tank once you reach the waterfall, the hike can easily be extended around the remainder of the loop, so don't feel like you're choosing a dead-end trail.  It's not a bad option.

That being said, I've only done the loop from that direction once -- with my mother, the hiking hypochondriac.  I typically opt to begin on the Temescal Ridge Trail for a number of reasons:  

1.  I enjoy the steeper incline right off the bat

     1a.  Great workout

     1b.  Get the hard stuff out of the way first

2.  Saving the bridge and waterfall for later always seems like a nice treat

3.  Coming down the steep hill from the opposite direction can be killer on the knees

So once again, I selected the Temescal Ridge Trail to start, and here's how it went...

Right from the start, this trail is a steady uphill, ascending over 800 feet in 1.4 miles.  Small turnouts along the way offer views of the Pacific and nearby communities.  The trail itself goes in and out of shade and will keep you guessing what's around each corner.

While this section of the trail is dominated by dry chaparral, there are some great dots of color along the way.  Spring is an ideal time for this hike, but I was surprised to see so much cool flora in bloom in January.  

The trail continues up and up, and at points, seems endless...

But I assure you, the semi-strenuous climb is totally worth it, especially on a clear day (unlike the day I hiked it).  Once you reach the apex, there is a fantastic view of the Pacific and the surrounding areas, including Santa Monica, Downtown, and the palatial-sized ticky-tacky of the Palisades.  Take a breather and enjoy the scenery.  When I crested the final hill, I could hear the clanging of bells from a nearby church below.  Hallelujah! 

When you're ready to move on, you have about another 35 feet of elevation until you reach the highest point on the loop -- cake compared to what you've already done...

In about 0.4 miles, you'll come to a small clearing with a few markers for spur trails.  Don't let these alternate routes throw you off, but this should be your mental marker to pay attention, because your exit off the Ridge Trail is coming up quickly.  To stay on course, follow the direction of the woman in red...

For the love of God, pay attention!  In 200 feet, a tiny-ass post marks the junction of the Temescal Ridge Trail and the Temescal Canyon Trail.  If you want to see the waterfall, this is your stop.  You'll descend a small hill and turn right at the fork.

Continuing straight on the Temescal Ridge Trail can take you as far as the trailhead at Trippet Ranch in Topanga and will lead you past some pretty cool spots like Skull Rock.  I've traveled as far as Hub Junction (also cool) and was astounded at the interconnectivity of the local parks.  But that's for another blog post.  In the meantime...

TURN RIGHT!

Thus begins the gentler, shadier, greener, and more tranquil portion of the trail.  Now it's about half a mile downhill until the footbridge and waterfall, so enjoy the trip down because the hard stuff is out of the way. 

On the way down, I overheard a gray-haired woman say, "My first love was an Irish guy."  I wish I had heard the rest of that story.

Speaking of love, many that have walked the Canyon Trail before me have apparently decided to express their affection by defiling an aging, mossy tree, etching their initials into its branches.  When one person does it, it might be considered a sweet, romantic gesture.  However, when scores of couples do it in the same location, it becomes a little sadistic.  

Hmmmm....

Anyone have any thoughts on carving initials into trees: romantic and timeless or lame and disrespectful?

Leave a comment and check out this little video I made...

As you make your way down, the scenery becomes more verdant.  Eventually, the temperature drops a bit and the sound of trickling water becomes audible. That section of the trail, before you come upon the footbridge and waterfall, is still one of my favorites.  The anticipation, the anticipation, the anticipation around each corner.

And then...

What a fucking zoo!

Temescal's greatest flaw, and the reason why it did not the receive the full 5 out of 5 Mountain rating from the Bonsignore Park Service, is the number of people. On the weekend, this place is packed, and the bridge/waterfall serves as the park's downtown hub.  Ideally, this is a great spot to hang and have a snack.  When it's this crowded though, I find it irksome.  Despite the masses and my misanthropy, it's still a beautiful spot.  Not much of a waterfall to speak of -- in fact, nothing more than a tiny piss-trickle -- so if you were reading this post simply to see an awesome waterfall, I sincerely apologize.  It's been an incredibly dry winter, but I assure you, after it rains in the spring, there's usually a nice steady flow.  While the banks are dry, however, it serves as a playground for the young and old...

Once you've had your fill, it's time to head on back.  The trail extends a little over a mile until you return to the parking lot and finish in the same place you started.  Along the way, there's still plenty of cool things to see...

If you pass by summer camp cabins and a pre-school on your way back, not to fear.  It all leads back to the lot at Sunset.

Temescal remains a favorite spot in the Santa Monica Mountains.  I've done this hike a few times in the middle of the week when it's pretty much empty.  That's when the trail is looking its best and when I feel most at ease.  At Temescal, I will always be reminded of my college days and the comfort the trail brought me during some contemplative and trying moments.  But as the nostalgia fades, I look forward to creating new memories along my familiar path.  One thing will probably never change though...I'll do the steep part first.

If a Tree Falls....

No hike this past weekend, as I was bed-ridden with a nasty case of food poisoning.  The culprit: Vegetarian Fried Rice at Fu-Ga downtown.  The result: one very sick Cody.

In my lethargic stupor, the only energy I could muster was expended watching football and movies.  In fact, I managed to watch two movies with the word “Tree” in the title: Tree of Life and a documentary called If a Tree Falls.  Because I have only a vague understanding of what the hell Malick was trying to communicate in his high-concept treatise on God, nature, and family, I think I’ll focus on the latter film.

If you want a film to challenge your brain a little, without putting you through a twenty-minute interlude depicting the dawn of the universe, then this “Tree” film is the way to go...

In the late ‘90s and early ‘00s, the Earth Liberation Front (ELF) rose to prominence in the U.S. as a radical environmentalist group.  Using arson as their key weapon, they took aim at logging companies, SUV dealerships, GMO farmers, and other perpetrators of eco-crimes, causing millions of dollars in property damage.  Daniel McGowan was at the forefront of a number of major ELF missions, and he is also the central character of the documentary.

--Check out the trailer--

We watch as McGowan, a slovenly and disgruntled dude, recounts his involvement with the ELF and endures house arrest, unsure of his fate in the eyes of the law.  All interesting stuff, but for me, the real mind-bender was considering whether or not the ELF ought to be deemed a terrorist organization.  The news media and FBI alike labeled it as such, yet not a single person has been injured or harmed in any ELF attack.  So are they eco-terrorists or simply vandals and arsonists?  Tricky stuff, but it’s an important question to answer, as the label of “terrorist” in a post-9/11 world is not only an unsavory title, but its one that carries weighty legal consequences. 

“One man’s terrorist is another man’s freedom fighter,” an investigator says in the film, and indeed the adage seems true.  Do I agree with much of the ELF’s pro-environment rah-rah rhetoric?  I’m a California vegetarian who just started a hiking blog -- so yeah.  Do I agree with the ELF’s means of accomplishing their goals?  No.  So this then raises an interesting dilemma, one that is at the core of the film and ELF movement and one that my brain has yet to resolve: how do you enact social change when all means of civil protest have failed?  What is the appropriate course of action when your screams for revolution fall upon deaf ears?  What then?

So ultimately, are the members of the Earth Liberation Front terrorists?  According to this definition, yeah, it seems like they are in my opinion.  But by the same token, many organizations, including some national governments, might also classify.  Again: Terrorist/Freedom-Fighter.  As fascinatingly complicated as it is, the debate over loaded language and slippery slopes distracts from the real issue at hand, the one the ELF fought so hard against: the degradation of our environment.  No rant necessary here, just a simple reminder to be cognizant of the resources used and products consumed on a daily basis…and to get out and enjoy our parks, which I hope to do this weekend barring another dietary fiasco.

Check out the film to see what happens to Daniel McGowan and whether or not he’s ruled a “terrorist” in a court of law, and let me know what you think about the conundrums the film raises.

CIRCLE X RANCH - Canyon View Trail & the Quest for the Grotto

In the waning hours of 2011, I went for a hike with my mom and decided to start a blog.  Good lord, save us all.

Circle X Ranch is a former Boy Scout camp in the western Santa Monica Mountains, and it's a local region that's eluded me for years.  I now regret not getting my ass out there sooner, because, turns out, this is one cool spot.

We approached from the north via Westlake Blvd 23 (a windy but spectacular drive), but it's also accessible from the South via PCH.  Click here for a map of the area.  We parked at the Sandstone Peak Trailhead, which is one of three free lots, and it's one of the most obviously labeled trailheads I've ever seen...

The elevation at the trailhead is 2030', and it's where you can begin your ascent to Sandstone Peak, the highest point in the Santa Monica Mountains at 3111'.  However, we opted to take the less traveled Canyon View Trail, whose trailhead actually begins on the opposite side of the street from the parking lot...

The trail is nice and narrow (1-3 ft.), and it's mostly downhill for the entire 1.5 miles.  The path offers some great vistas of the surrounding areas...

I typically fly solo when I hike, but I had a co-pilot for this trek.

A few notes about my traveling partner: 

She gave birth to me 26 years ago.  She introduced me to the splendors of hiking as a wee lad and taught me the finer points of photography when I was 14.  She's a television executive, a cancer survivor, a Northwestern post-graduate candidate, and a tough little cookie with a vestigial NY accent.  At the risk of coming off as soft wussyboy right from the get-go, I'll admit I love her dearly, and we're pretty tight.

This being said, the same drama seems to play out every time we hike together.  All starts well, but at some point she freaks out, fearing she's in too deep and has no idea how she'll be able to make it back.  Her melodramatic side is then displayed in all of its theatrical glory: the panicky breathing, the childlike monosyllabic requests ("Food," "Drink," "Break"), and the inane barrage of questions about the remaining distance and elevation gain, which of course I can only estimate.  Spoiler Alert: she always makes it out alive and is quick to boast about the day's physical achievements upon arriving home.  Today was no different...

The trail continues down, down, down and at 0.9 miles, you'll hit this fork in the road.  Keep left to stay on the trail...

Not long after (0.6 miles to be exact), you'll come upon another fork.  The Canyon View Trail ends, and you can access the Grotto Trail.  Elevation at this intersection is 1568'.  I don't believe I've ever seen a grotto before, so I naturally assumed it would look very similar to the one at the Playboy Mansion and would likewise filled with busty Playmates.  Thus, the quest for the Grotto began...

The trail opens up pretty quickly to a small, open meadow -- not a bad place for a respite if necessary...

This section of the trail provides some relief from the sun.  (Even in December/January, it can be pretty warm on the trails. Gotta love SoCal).  The descent continues, and this portion of the road is a bit steeper and has quite a bit of loose rock.  Come equipped with the proper footwear...

Not a ton of awesome flora to speak of, but there's a ton of this white stuff, and I smelled it from beginning to end...

You'll cross a creek bed (it was dry when we went) and see another sign that points to the Grotto (0.6 miles).  Pretty smooth sailing from there as you approach the Grotto...

After the little marshy woodland area, a patch of large loose rocks leads you to what seems like a dead end.  However, this marks the final descent to the Grotto, which requires you to scramble down a series of large rocks.  My mom wisely bailed there, and I recommend the same for anyone who is not fit to use all fours to climb down (and back up) the final 20-30 feet.  Begin the descent on the right side of the rocks.  From there, my best advice is to take your time and find your own safe path down.

I was pleasantly surprised by my ability to navigate the terrain with speed and strength.  I felt like a monkeyjungleboy, using the available trees and boulders to swing my way down, which proved to be a rewarding primal experience.  There was a middle-aged woman behind me who was baffled there was no water over the rocks and seemed disoriented because of it.  Not long after, I smelled the smoke from the joint she was sharing with her friends.  Perhaps she was disoriented for another reason.

Finally, I made it to the Grotto (Elevation approx 1125'), which turned out to be completely worth the trek, despite the absence of Miss January and her fellow Bunnies.  A slow trickle falls into a cove, two sides separated by a massive boulder.  I wish I had some pics that would accurately depict the scene, but I'm sad to report that I completely botched this one.  I forgot to switch lenses with my mom before I started the scramble, so I was left without wide angle glass, which would have been key in accurately presenting the Grotto.  I sincerely apologize, but I promise I'll get better at this...

 

Of course, what goes down...must come back up.  The 900 foot ascent was not an easy one for my mom, whose toes I had to tape with gauze because of some nasty pain caused by her shoes.  Famished and flustered, she ate both of our rations of snacks.  Despite the frequent stops and requests to leave her dying on the mountain, my mom eventually made it back to the car with a smile on her face.

Overall, this is a rad spot with a cool payoff, and I'd love to come back in the spring when the water may be rushing.  It was a great way to ring in the New Year, and I wish peace, happiness, and prosperity for you all in 2012.