TEMESCAL CANYON - The Return of a Collegiate Refugee

Although I began hiking in the Santa Monica Mountains at an early age, I never trekked solo until I was in college.  I found refuge in the hills and can distinctly remember standing cliffside in Temescal Canyon, in awe of being surrounded by everything and nothing all at once. Temescal was a short jaunt away from my university, which made it the perfect pre-class getaway. My final semester was packed with photography classes, and Temescal served as the backdrop for a number of projects, including the two photographs above, which were shot with a pinhole camera that I built out of an old wooden box.  

At various times, Temescal has been a meeting-ground for friends, a salve during heartbreak, and a training gym for Half Dome and Mt. Whitney. But every time it's been a place for contemplation and renewal.

I have returned to Temescal on a number of occasions since graduation, but I figured I'd pay the ol' stompin' grounds a visit and breathe some familiar air.

Temescal Gateway Park is located at the intersection of Temescal Canyon Road and Sunset Boulevard.  There is street parking on Sunset, but if you have the means, I encourage you to pay the $7 fee to park in the lot to support the maintenance of the park.  After depositing your mini-envelope into the mouth of the Iron Ranger, make your way to the trailhead...

Knowing where to begin can be a bit confusing, as there are people buzzing about in a number of directions, but essentially there are two main options. The beginning of both trailheads can be accessed by ascending the stairs seen below.  Then you have to make a choice: follow the Temescal Canyon Trail or the Temescal Ridge Trail.  

The main section of the park is essentially a loop, so you can't really go too far astray, but I'll break down the differences...

The Temescal Canyon Trail will lead you directly to the infamous Temescal Waterfall in an easy to moderate mile-long stroll with a 460 ft. elevation gain.  I recommend this path for anyone who is a little unsure of their physical abilities, or for anyone who has limited time on the trail.  If you feel you have more gas in the tank once you reach the waterfall, the hike can easily be extended around the remainder of the loop, so don't feel like you're choosing a dead-end trail.  It's not a bad option.

That being said, I've only done the loop from that direction once -- with my mother, the hiking hypochondriac.  I typically opt to begin on the Temescal Ridge Trail for a number of reasons:  

1.  I enjoy the steeper incline right off the bat

     1a.  Great workout

     1b.  Get the hard stuff out of the way first

2.  Saving the bridge and waterfall for later always seems like a nice treat

3.  Coming down the steep hill from the opposite direction can be killer on the knees

So once again, I selected the Temescal Ridge Trail to start, and here's how it went...

Right from the start, this trail is a steady uphill, ascending over 800 feet in 1.4 miles.  Small turnouts along the way offer views of the Pacific and nearby communities.  The trail itself goes in and out of shade and will keep you guessing what's around each corner.

While this section of the trail is dominated by dry chaparral, there are some great dots of color along the way.  Spring is an ideal time for this hike, but I was surprised to see so much cool flora in bloom in January.  

The trail continues up and up, and at points, seems endless...

But I assure you, the semi-strenuous climb is totally worth it, especially on a clear day (unlike the day I hiked it).  Once you reach the apex, there is a fantastic view of the Pacific and the surrounding areas, including Santa Monica, Downtown, and the palatial-sized ticky-tacky of the Palisades.  Take a breather and enjoy the scenery.  When I crested the final hill, I could hear the clanging of bells from a nearby church below.  Hallelujah! 

When you're ready to move on, you have about another 35 feet of elevation until you reach the highest point on the loop -- cake compared to what you've already done...

In about 0.4 miles, you'll come to a small clearing with a few markers for spur trails.  Don't let these alternate routes throw you off, but this should be your mental marker to pay attention, because your exit off the Ridge Trail is coming up quickly.  To stay on course, follow the direction of the woman in red...

For the love of God, pay attention!  In 200 feet, a tiny-ass post marks the junction of the Temescal Ridge Trail and the Temescal Canyon Trail.  If you want to see the waterfall, this is your stop.  You'll descend a small hill and turn right at the fork.

Continuing straight on the Temescal Ridge Trail can take you as far as the trailhead at Trippet Ranch in Topanga and will lead you past some pretty cool spots like Skull Rock.  I've traveled as far as Hub Junction (also cool) and was astounded at the interconnectivity of the local parks.  But that's for another blog post.  In the meantime...

TURN RIGHT!

Thus begins the gentler, shadier, greener, and more tranquil portion of the trail.  Now it's about half a mile downhill until the footbridge and waterfall, so enjoy the trip down because the hard stuff is out of the way. 

On the way down, I overheard a gray-haired woman say, "My first love was an Irish guy."  I wish I had heard the rest of that story.

Speaking of love, many that have walked the Canyon Trail before me have apparently decided to express their affection by defiling an aging, mossy tree, etching their initials into its branches.  When one person does it, it might be considered a sweet, romantic gesture.  However, when scores of couples do it in the same location, it becomes a little sadistic.  

Hmmmm....

Anyone have any thoughts on carving initials into trees: romantic and timeless or lame and disrespectful?

Leave a comment and check out this little video I made...

As you make your way down, the scenery becomes more verdant.  Eventually, the temperature drops a bit and the sound of trickling water becomes audible. That section of the trail, before you come upon the footbridge and waterfall, is still one of my favorites.  The anticipation, the anticipation, the anticipation around each corner.

And then...

What a fucking zoo!

Temescal's greatest flaw, and the reason why it did not the receive the full 5 out of 5 Mountain rating from the Bonsignore Park Service, is the number of people. On the weekend, this place is packed, and the bridge/waterfall serves as the park's downtown hub.  Ideally, this is a great spot to hang and have a snack.  When it's this crowded though, I find it irksome.  Despite the masses and my misanthropy, it's still a beautiful spot.  Not much of a waterfall to speak of -- in fact, nothing more than a tiny piss-trickle -- so if you were reading this post simply to see an awesome waterfall, I sincerely apologize.  It's been an incredibly dry winter, but I assure you, after it rains in the spring, there's usually a nice steady flow.  While the banks are dry, however, it serves as a playground for the young and old...

Once you've had your fill, it's time to head on back.  The trail extends a little over a mile until you return to the parking lot and finish in the same place you started.  Along the way, there's still plenty of cool things to see...

If you pass by summer camp cabins and a pre-school on your way back, not to fear.  It all leads back to the lot at Sunset.

Temescal remains a favorite spot in the Santa Monica Mountains.  I've done this hike a few times in the middle of the week when it's pretty much empty.  That's when the trail is looking its best and when I feel most at ease.  At Temescal, I will always be reminded of my college days and the comfort the trail brought me during some contemplative and trying moments.  But as the nostalgia fades, I look forward to creating new memories along my familiar path.  One thing will probably never change though...I'll do the steep part first.